PowerBench Español
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Updated November 2026

What size portable power station do I need?

You need to check two numbers: capacity in watt‑hours (Wh), which decides how long things run, and output in watts (W), which decides what you can plug in at all. Get both right and any station on this site will do the job.

Step 1: list what you want to power

Use the label on each device, or these typical figures. For devices that cycle on and off, like fridges, use the average.

DeviceTypical watts
Phone charging10 W
LED light bulb10 W
Wi‑Fi router + modem20 W
CPAP machine40 W
12 V cooler50 W
Fridge (average draw)60 W
Laptop60 W
55" TV100 W
Microwave (700 W model)1,000 W
Drip coffee maker1,000 W
Space heater1,500 W

Step 2: check the watts

Add up everything you will run at the same time. The station’s continuous output must be higher than that total. A coffee maker or space heater alone rules out anything under about 1,500 W, while phones, laptops, routers and CPAPs run on almost anything.

Step 3: calculate the watt‑hours

For each device, multiply its watts by the hours you need it, add the results, then add 15% for inverter losses. That is the minimum capacity to look for.

Example for an overnight outage: fridge 56 W × 12 h = 672 Wh, router 20 W × 12 h = 240 Wh, phones and lights about 100 Wh. Total 1,012 Wh, plus 15% ≈ 1,160 Wh. A 1 kWh station falls short, so this home should look at about 1.2 kWh or more, and a 2 kWh unit gives comfortable margin.

Quick guide by use

Day trips, phones, cameras and laptops: 250–500 Wh. Weekend camping with a 12 V cooler or CPAP: 500–1,000 Wh. Overnight home backup for a fridge, router and CPAP: 1,000–2,000 Wh. Multi‑day outages, well pumps or 240 V appliances: 3 kWh and up, ideally expandable.

Frequently asked questions

Is it better to buy bigger than I need?

A little, yes. Batteries lose some capacity over the years and real‑world efficiency is lower than the label, so 20–30% of headroom is sensible. Expandable models let you start smaller.

Why do I get fewer Wh than the label says?

Converting battery power to 120 V AC loses about 10–20% as heat. Charging through USB or the 12 V socket loses less.

Sources: BKV Energy · RetirementLiving